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Big John, founded in Kojima in the 1940s, is credited with producing Japan’s first domestically made jeans in 1965. A pioneer of Japanese selvedge denim, the brand continues to honour its heritage with high-quality fabrics, timeless fits, and authentic craftsmanship.
While enthusiasts often look to the Osaka Five, the story begins with Big John, the “godfather” of Japanese denim brands.
Founded in 1940 in Kojima, Okayama, by Kotaro Ozaki, the company began as Maruo Clothing, a small operation making workwear, school uniforms, and military-style garments. In 1965, they produced Japan's first domestically sewn jeans (sold under the Canton brand, using US-imported fabric). The Big John name was introduced in 1967. By 1972, they'd partnered with Kurabo Mills to develop the first denim fabric (KD-8) woven in Japan, and in 1973, they released the first jeans made in Japan using domestically woven Japanese denim. Big John helped proved that Japanese mills could produce denim that rivaled American denim.
Big John continues to build on that legacy, meticulously crafting Japanese denim on low-tension vintage shuttle looms in Okayama, the same town where the brand still operates. Their fits lean more classic: straight legs and relaxed-tapered silhouettes with innovative experiments in weight, texture, fabric, and stretch, as seen in their ‘Wild Duck’ and ‘RARE’ denim lines.
It's the pair we hand to first-time selvedge buyers more often than anything else on the wall, though the versatile range also speaks to longtime denim collectors who appreciate the simple details done exceptionally well.
Big John offers a range of fits, including straight, slim, and relaxed tapered styles. Sanforized models fit close to true-to-size, while unsanforized jeans will shrink after the first wash. Check each product page for specific measurements before selecting your size.
Many of Big John’s indigo fabrics use traditional rope-dyeing techniques that leave the core of the yarn white. As the indigo fades, this method allows their heavier fabrics to develop crisp, high-contrast creases like whiskers (hige) and honeycombs (hachinosu), alongside classic vertical falling lines (tate-ochi).
It's the most accessible Japanese selvedge on most shop floors. Big John doesn't chase the extreme weights or aggressive slub textures that brands like Pure Blue Japan and Samurai are known for. Classic weights, classic fits, faster break-in. If you're new to Japanese selvedge denim, this is the brand we'd put in your hands first.
At Private & Co., we're one of the few retailers carrying Big John in Canada. Browse our collection online or visit us at 83 East Pender in Vancouver's Chinatown. We offer free shipping on orders over $250 in Canada and also worldwide shipping options.
