Craftsmanship behind Pure Blue Japan denim
If you know denim, you know Pure Blue Japan (PBJ). Also known as Syoaiya, the brand was founded in 1997 in Okayama, Japan, by Kenichi Iwaya. PBJ's reputation is built on how the fabric looks and feels, specifically its slubby and neppy textures, cut, and shape.
Pure Blue Japan jeans begin with yarns rope-dyed in natural (ai) or synthetic indigo and then gently woven on vintage shuttle looms. The signature super slub low-tension weave creates raised, irregular vertical lines in the fabric that produce an uneven, almost three-dimensional texture that’s hard to find in selvedge denim. PBJ jeans also have longer and thicker stitches using customized sewing machines. But the most iconic detail is the embroidered PBJ leaf logo, which pays homage to the indigofera plant used to make natural indigo.
The craftsmanship behind each piece is why Pure Blue Japan’s original slubby selvedge denim, sashiko pieces, and heavy indigo jackets have such a cult following among raw denim enthusiasts. If you’re comparing PBJ jeans to other jeans, think texture first, then fit, then weight. The denim is made for high-contrast fades that develop character over time, rather than a flat, uniform fade.
FAQ
Are Pure Blue Japan jeans unsanforized?
Yes, most Pure Blue Japan jeans are unsanforized, but many flagship models are sold in one-wash versions to reduce shrinkage. For unsanforized denim that has not been washed, it will shrink on the first soak and needs to be sized accordingly before buying. We can help you figure out the right size based on your measurements.
What makes Pure Blue Japan different from other Japanese denim brands?
Primarily the fabric, which comes from Ibara. PBJ uses proprietary slub yarns and weaving techniques that produce some of the most textured denim, often described as slubby, neppy, irregular, hairy, and rough compared to other Japanese brands.
What is the best Pure Blue Japan fit?
PBJ jeans come in 4 main silhouettes: 003, 005, 013, and 019, though the brand releases a wider range of fits across different fabrics and seasons. The XX-013 (slim-tapered) and XX-019 (relaxed-tapered) are among the most widely worn. The XX-013 is the go-to for a modern fit with a subtle taper, while the XX-019 has a roomier top block with a sharp tapered leg.
How do Pure Blue Japan sashiko pieces hold up?
Pure Blue Japan sashiko pieces, such as the Type II jacket and jeans, are durable and hold up well for everyday wear and develop subtle fades. They break in slowly but age with real character, and the textured fabric softens and becomes more comfortable over time.
Where to buy Pure Blue Japan in Canada?
If you're looking for Pure Blue Japan in Canada, we carry flagship models and exclusive pieces in store and online at Private & Co. We offer free delivery across Canada on all orders over $250 and worldwide shipping options. If you’re in the area, stop by 83 East Pender in Vancouver's Chinatown to see and feel the fabric in person. Photos don't do PBJ justice.
