Choosing men's jeans by fit, fabric, and weight
A good pair of jeans should age with you. Most don't.
Our men's selvedge denim comes in four main silhouettes. Straight-leg jeans follow the classic 1950s style with room through the thigh, straight from hip to ankle. A slim cut tapers from knee to ankle and sits closer without going too skinny. Tapered starts full at the top block and narrows toward the ankle. Relaxed and wide-leg cuts pull from earlier eras and leave room through the thigh and knee.
The right fit depends on your height and build, such as slim, average, athletic, triangle, or larger hips and waist. We size customers in the shop every day, and we'll tell you honestly which silhouette works on your frame. If you're ordering online, send your waist, rise, thigh, and inseam measurements, and we'll narrow it down before you check out.
Every pair of jeans we carry is either raw or one-wash selvedge denim. Cotton sources across the collection include Zimbabwean long-staple, American Supima, and Japanese-grown varieties. Each type of cotton affects softness, durability, and how the indigo fades over years of wear.
Weight matters more than you realize. Lightweight denim jeans (12 oz or less) break in fast, fade quickly, and stay comfortable year-round. Mid-weight denim (12–15 oz) is the fading sweet spot with enough stiffness for sharp creases. Heavyweight denim (16–21 oz) is stiff and takes months to break in but rewards patience with impressive high-contrast fades. If you're torn between a 14 oz and a 17 oz, the cotton and the weave tension tell you more about how the jeans will age than the weight number alone.
FAQ
How should men's selvedge jeans fit?
Close, but not tight. Selvedge denim typically stretches through the waist, thigh, and seat with daily wear. If a pair feels perfect in the store, it'll be slightly looser after break-in. The fit should also account for your body type and whether the denim is sanforized (pre-shrunk) or unsanforized (shrink-to-fit). Raw denim will shrink after the first wash, while one-wash denim reduces shrinkage.
How long do selvedge jeans last?
It can last years with basic care (minimal washing, hang-drying, and rotating between two pairs when you can). Some of our customers' selvedge denim (and our own) is well past 5+ years and still getting better. For care specifics, read our denim care guide.
Does raw selvedge denim stain?
Yes, especially in the first few weeks. Known as ‘crocking,’ indigo transfers anywhere the denim rubs, such as white sneakers, leather upholstery, or your skin. The bleed slows down after the first wash. Until then, sit on a dark towel on lighter furniture or car seats, and accept some indigo on your shoes or rotate to a darker pair.
Where can I find selvedge denim jeans in Canada?
Right here. At Private & Co., we carry men's selvedge jeans from Japanese brands like Studio D'Artisan, Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head, UES, FULLCOUNT, Samurai, TCB, and Big John, alongside American picks like Imogene + Willie. Browse the full collection and get free shipping on orders over $250 in Canada. We also offer worldwide shipping options.
If you're in Vancouver, come visit us at 83 East Pender in Chinatown. We've sized most of our denim products and can get you into the right fit on the first try. Anywhere else in Canada, email your measurements before you order online, and we’ll help you with sizing.
