Samurai - 17oz "Zero+" Model Straight Fit Selvedge Jeans [S5000VXⅡ]

The Samurai S5000VXⅡ is one of the core jeans in the brand’s lineup, built around their signature 17oz “Zero” Bushido selvedge denim and a clean, slightly slim straight silhouette. It sits in a particularly useful place within Samurai’s range, substantial enough to deliver the texture and fading the brand is known for, but without pushing into the extreme weight of their 21oz and 25oz fabrics.

The 17oz Bushido denim is woven from thick, heavily slubbed No. 5 yarn on vintage shuttle looms. Samurai deliberately weaves the fabric at low tension, allowing the irregularity of the yarn to remain visible rather than compressing it into a smooth, uniform surface. The result is a dense denim with a coarse, slightly hairy hand and pronounced texture straight out of the box.

That uneven construction is also what gives the Zero denim its distinctive aging potential. Raised sections of the slub yarn take abrasion faster while lower areas retain more of their indigo, creating strong contrast between light and dark areas as the fabric breaks in. Expect pronounced creasing, vertical texture and the irregular point fading that has made Samurai’s Bushido denim a longstanding favourite.

The S5000VXⅡ uses a slightly slim straight fit with a moderately shallow rise and a leg that runs straight from the thigh through the hem without tapering. It falls between Samurai’s fuller straight models and their slimmer tapered cuts, giving it a balanced silhouette that feels traditional without becoming overly wide.

Details are characteristically Samurai. Iron pine tree buttons and copper coin-shaped rivets handle the hardware, while the interior uses the brand’s “Shogyō Mujō” jacquard pocket bags, a reference to the Buddhist idea that all things are impermanent. The dedicated leather patch depicts the moment before a duel begins, when both warriors have drawn their swords and reached the state of “Zero.”

Samurai also varies the construction throughout the jeans rather than relying on one uniform stitch specification. Original yellow and golden brown thread are used across the garment, with stitch count, needle size and stitch width adjusted depending on the area being sewn. Current production has also been simplified at the rear, with Samurai removing both the decorative arcuate stitching and woven Samurai pocket label.

Finished with a one wash treatment, the major initial shrinkage has already been removed while leaving the denim firm, textured and ready to develop through long term wear.

Made in Japan.

Key Features

• 100% cotton

• 17oz Samurai Bushido selvedge denim

• Samurai “Zero” denim series

• Heavy No. 5 slub yarn

• Woven on vintage shuttle looms

• Low tension weaving

• Rough, highly textured surface

• Designed for pronounced high contrast fading

• Slightly slim straight fit

• Moderately shallow rise

• Straight leg with no taper through the hem

• Iron pine tree buttons

• Copper coin shaped rivets

• “Shogyō Mujō” Impermanence jacquard pocket bags

• Exclusive S5000VXⅡ leather patch

• Exclusive flasher

• Original yellow and golden brown stitching

• Variable stitch count, needle size and stitch width

• Current production does not include back pocket arcuate stitching

• Current production does not include the woven Samurai back pocket label

• One wash finish

• Made in Japan

• Style S5000VXⅡ

• Shop more styles from Samurai Jeans

Fabric & Care

100% cotton, 17oz Japanese Bushido selvedge denim.

The fabric is woven from thick, hard textured No. 5 slub yarn at low tension, creating an intentionally irregular surface with considerable texture. Through wear, raised areas of yarn will fade more quickly while recessed areas hold onto their indigo, producing greater contrast and variation over time.

The jeans have received a one wash treatment, so the majority of the initial shrinkage has already occurred. Some additional settling may still happen depending on water temperature and drying method.

Wash cold with a mild detergent and hang dry. Indigo transfer is expected, particularly when the denim is new.

Fit

Samurai slightly slim straight fit.

The S5000VXⅡ has a moderately shallow rise with a balanced upper block and a straight leg that continues to the hem without tapering. It is slimmer than Samurai’s fuller regular straight cuts, but considerably less restrictive than a slim tapered jean.

Samurai sizing can differ from typical North American denim sizing, so we recommend comparing the listed garment measurements against a pair of jeans you already own and like the fit of before choosing your size.

Samurai S5000VXⅡ 17oz Zero selvedge jeans, made in Japan from textured Bushido denim with a timeless slightly slim straight fit.

Unsanforized denim, one washed at the factory. Minimal further shrinkage with a cold wash and hang dry.

These figures are estimates. Fabric, fit, and care all affect how a garment settles, so treat them as a guide rather than a guarantee. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.

Garment measurements taken flat before wash. Compare against a piece you already own and love.

Canada: free Standard shipping over $300 CAD, otherwise $19.99 in BC and $24.99 to the rest of Canada. Express is $33 flat. Tracked courier, 1 to 4 business days.

United States: free Standard shipping over $350 USD, otherwise $25.99 USD. Express is $30 USD.

Returns: read our Return Policy for full details on returns and exchanges.

Wear for as long as you can before the first wash. Cold soak, hang dry in shade, never tumble dry. Full guide in our Journal.