Samurai Jeans

Samurai Jeans: Japanese denim with its own character

Not all selvedge denim wears the same, and Samurai Jeans is a good example of why. Founded in Osaka, Japan, in 1997 by Toru Nogami, the brand made its name by pushing denim weights beyond what was conventional at the time. That same willingness to experiment still defines the brand now, from textured denim to carefully considered hardware, custom leather patches, and meticulous details inspired by vintage American jeans and workwear.

Samurai’s commitment to quality means its denim is still woven on traditional shuttle looms, even if the slow process yields only 10 garments a day. These machines give selvedge denim its characteristic finished edge, while differences in yarn and weave create the uneven or “slub” texture that enthusiasts look for. Samurai’s lineup includes 15oz, 17oz, 19oz, and 25oz denim, alongside other fabric variations and colours. Each has its own feel, so there’s no need to default to the heaviest option to find a pair worth wearing.

If jeans aren't what you're after, there's plenty more to look at. The collection at Private & Co. includes selvedge denim jackets, hickory-stripe work pants, sashiko pieces, a Western denim shirt, heavyweight graphic T-shirts, and loopwheel tees. These pieces make it easier to bring Samurai’s fabric-led approach into everyday wear without building your entire wardrobe around raw denim.

FAQ

What is the difference between Samurai Jeans models?

Samurai Jeans differ primarily by their model codes (indicated by numbers like the classic straight S510HXII or wide-straight S310XX19ozII) and fabric suffixes (such as VX for slubby Zero denim or OG for Otokogi Denim). Depending on the model, you'll find differences in leg shape, rise, denim weight, texture, and construction details.

Should I size up or down in Samurai Jeans?

Sizing depends on whether the Samurai model is unsanforized (raw denim) or one-wash (pre-shrunk). Raw denim will shrink after the first wash, while one-wash denim has already undergone an initial wash but may still shrink further. Generally, we recommend sizing up one size for raw denim, but always compare your flat-lay measurements with the garment measurements on the product page. If you're unsure, contact us for help choosing the right size.

What kind of cotton does Samurai use?

Samurai works with different cotton varieties across its denim lineup, including Texas and Australian cotton (known for its rough texture), alongside chemical-free cotton grown through its own Samurai Cotton Project in Sasayama, Japan. The project reflects the brand’s interest in reviving domestic Japanese cotton cultivation and is typically used in limited-edition models such as the S500AX Ai-Plus (Ai+) and Cotton Project collections. Fabric specifications vary across the lineup, so check the product details for each model.

How do Samurai jeans fade?

Samurai denim is known for its fast, high-contrast vertical fades (tate-ochi) with patterns that depend on the specific fabric, dye, fit, and how often you wear and wash the jeans. As you break them in, the patterns will show up as “honeycombs” behind the knees and “whiskers” across the hips and pockets.

Where can I buy Samurai Jeans in Canada?

Private & Co. is an official Samurai Jeans stockist. Shop online at Private & Co. or visit our store at 83 East Pender Street in Vancouver, BC. Alongside our Samurai jeans, jackets, shirts, T-shirts, and accessories, we carry heritage brands such as Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head, Studio D’Artisan, Dehen 1920, UES, and TCB Jeans. We ship worldwide, with free shipping on Canadian orders over $300 CAD and US orders over $350 USD.